After having a great cultural day on day 1, we were tired  and thus didn’t start our last day in Jogja early. We had breakfast in the hotel then checked ourselves out before going out and about in the city. Day 2 main destinations were Keraton (the Palace), Taman Sari Water Castle and of course, buying souvenirs. We walked around 20 minutes down Jl. Malioboro before we reached the Keraton. The first half of the road was fine as it’s sheltered but then the second half of the road was definitely hot and dusty. So if you’re planning to walk, don’t forget to put on sunscreen and wear a hat and a pair of sunnies.

squinty eyes!

The Keraton is open for public everyday from 8 am – 2 pm and there’s different art showcase on each day. The entrance fee didn’t include guide fee which we could easily find near the entrance gate. I would highly recommend hiring a guide as there are no sign or information inside the Keraton. The guides are Abdi Dalem, royal servants of the Keraton and there’s no official fee for their service. Interestingly, they usually won’t mention any amount as they see themselves as servants of the Sultan. It’s a public secret that Abdi Dalem receive little salary from Keraton but they believe that their service to the Sultan will give them an eternal reward. Thus, to fulfil their needs many have second job outside the Keraton.

Jogja’s Keraton is still used as residential for the Sultan and his family and so there are some areas closed for public. The Keraton was built in the 18th century and has gone through some renovations over the years but the main structure remains the same. One interesting point was the mix of cultures and religions shown in the architecture; Deutsch, Chinese, Portuguese, Islam, Buddhist and Hindu. The beautifully crafted columns that support the main bangsal (open space) were influenced by different religions in that era, and some elements in the Keraton are influenced by other cultures as well. Clearly the world was never that big!

Pretty part of Keraton

After listening to Kasultanan Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat’s great history, we headed off from the Keraton to Taman Sari. Taman Sari Water Castle was the royal garden of the Sultanate which located on the Keraton ground. As the complex is huge and there’s no information sign available, I would recommend hiring a guide who can tell the full history of the complex. Similar to the ones in Keraton, guide fee at Taman Sari is based on mutual agreement.

Taman Sari was used as the resting and bathing place for the Sultan and his family members, as well as a hiding and meditation place. Built in 18th century, some areas of the complex were destroyed during the British  invasion in the 1812 and big earthquake in 1986. However, I suppose the main eyesore in this complex are houses that were built irregularly that made the complex more of a village rather than a heritage site.

Originally consisted of an artificial lake where Sultan and his family would go canoeing, it is unfortunately the lake has turned to residential area. A little imagination was needed to be able to picture its beauty. Close by the lake, there’s a 2 story underground mosque which built on Islamic values. From the underground mosque, we then visited the bathing complex. This area had gone major reconstruction and now become the main attraction of Taman Sari. Back in its glorious time, Sultan would choose between paddling through the lake (of course his servants would paddle!) or walking through the underground passageway. Rumour even has it that there’s an underground corridor between Keraton, Taman Sari and the South Sea of Jogja where Sultan can hide to safety.

The bathing complex consisted of 3 baths; one for Sultan’s daughters and young sons, another for his concubines, and a special one for the Sultan himself and a chosen wife. Each of this baths has its own change room and sauna, and the bath for Sultan even has an additional room for a siesta. To choose a lady that would accompany him bathing, Sultan would ask his wives and concubines to bath first while he went up to the tower and threw a flower. The one who picked the flower first would Sultan’s accompany for the day. Nearby the bath stood 2 stones that were used as aromatherapy and hair dryers. Servants would start fire to create heat which was used to dry the ladies’ hairs. Very smart indeed!

Fancy a dip?

Refreshing

At the back of the bathing complex, there were 4 gazebos where Sultan and his companies would relax while listening to music before going back to the Keraton. Our guide told us that when Sultan decided to go for a bath, it would mean a full day trip that consisted of musicians, servants, wives, daughters and young sons. Eventhough the distance between Keraton and Taman Sari was considerably short, it was the pace of the group that made the trip long. I suppose Sultan and his family should remain graceful at all time.

Musicians hut at the backyard

We then headed back to our becak to visit Mirota Batik in Jl. Malioboro. Becak, or cycle rickshaw, is a vehicle that traditionally used human power. However, our becak was a modified version that used small motor and it surprised us because the becak driver didn’t turn on the motor on from our first leg of the trip (Keraton – Taman Sari). We didn’t know back then that motorized becak was illegal and our driver could be penalized if known. Riding the motorized becak was definitely nicer as it was faster and cooler as we caught more winds yet it’s also more dangerous. With it’s size and design, becak wasn’t designed for high speed. However, to be honest we enjoyed our fast ride more.

a motorized becak in disguise

Mirota Batik was very crowded and the aisles were so packed that moving around was a challenge but I have to admit that Mirota is a good place for souvenirs. You could get everything from batik dresses to wallets, traditional coconut carvings to fridge magnets, aromatherapy essences to traditional drinks. We went here because my dad asked us to buy him some Wedang Uwuh or Junk Drinks, if we translate it literally from Javanese. Wedang Uwuh consisted of ginger, sappanwood, clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, lemongrass root, cardamom and sugar. If you’re familiar with spices, you will know that Wedang Uwuh would taste sweet and spicy which also mean soothing for the throat. Looks aside, this drink is very pleasant and thus is highly recommended.

To close our Jogja trip, we met up with 2 of our Jogja friends who took us to early dinner in a wedangan near the Keraton. Wedangan is not a restaurant but more like a small kiosk / stall that sells various kind of food. There are lots of wedangan in Jogja (and also in Solo) but tourists should be aware that some wedangan would charge tourists more than locals. They can easily do it as most wedangan don’t have menu / price list. It might be a good idea to ask around (hotel / guest house reception or locals) for some recommendations. Our weekend in Jogja then ended as we arrived at Tugu Station to board our 8pm Lodaya Malam train straight to Bandung. The train was freezing cold, as it always is, but we were ready to cover up with socks, shawls and jackets. It felt like Melbourne winter all over again.

First long haul train ride

We arrived on time at Bandung Station on 3.30am, feeling a bit sleepy but thankfully we were able to sleep through during our train ride. As it was hubby’s first long haul train ride, he was satisfied with the experience as the train was clean and the seats were very comfortable for sleeping. His only complain was the lights that were kept on for the full trip. We should remember to pack our sleeping eye pads if we were to go on another train ride. Anyhow, our trip to Jogja was educational and fun, and has made me even prouder of my country and its heritage.

Jogjakarta, also known as Jogja or Yoyakarta, is the capital of Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta (Yogyakarta Special Distric). Famously known as Kota Gudeg (Gudeg City – more on this later) as well as Kota Pelajar (Students City), Jogja is also famous for its batik, dance, music and puppet shows which give this city the nickname Kota Budaya (Cultural City). During the national revolution, Jogja served as Indonesian capital for the period of 1946-1949 and it makes the city is historically significant for Indonesia.

Dear husband and I went for a 48 hours trip to Jogja last July. Our theme for the trip was culture and heritage so our destinations were Borobudur, the Ramayana Ballet, Jogja’s Keraton (Palace) and Taman Sari (Water Castle). So much to see in a weekend so hop hop, off we went!

To maximize the trip, we flew with the only morning flight available from Bandung which was on 06.30 am. FYI, the only other direct flight was on 2.25 pm. Oh the joy of living in a small city – not. So we flew with Merpati Air and to our surprise the plane was a Modern Ark 60 which made me a bit claustrophobic as the leg space was very tight and the windows were tiny. Drama aside, we made it to Jogja safely.

our ride!

Arriving at Jogja’s Adisucipto Airport, we were greeted by live traditional music consisted of a sinden (the lady singer) and 3 musicians playing gamelan. It was indeed a sweet touch while waiting for our luggage. For day 1, we rented a car with driver to drive us around as the day would be a long one.

welcome to Jogjakarta

First destination: a gudeg breakfast at Yu Djum (Jl. Palagan Tentara Pelajar 102). Gudeg is undoubtedly Jogja’s most famous dish. While gudeg is also popular in Central Java, the one is Jogja is usually sweeter and drier. Gudeg is made from jack fruit cooked in coconut milk and palm sugar, mixed with various spices and then served with rice, chicken, boiled egg and krecek (beef skin wet crackers). Although the one we went to wasn’t the original location of Yu Djum, it was still so yummy!

Gudeg Yu Djum

With a full happy tummy, we continued our journey to Candi Borobudur (Borobudur Temple). It was an hour ride in a normal traffic to reach Borobudur. Borobudur is a buddhist temple built in the 9th century and it’s still used for pilgrimage, especially on the Vesak. As a kid I’ve been to Borobudur several times but seeing this majestic architecture for the first time as an adult was a whole new experience. I was in awe as I stared at the temple and gazed through its relief. Borobudur has gone through the tests of time; forgotten as Islam overtaken Java, bombed by extremist group, rocked by an earthquake and buried in ashes from Mount Merapi eruption yet through rehabilitation this amazing temple stands still in all its glory.

The majestic Borobudur

Stupas at Borobudur

After spending time under the scorching sun of Borobudur, we hushed ourselves to Amanjiwo for a little rest and relax. Amanjiwo is a part of Aman Resorts and it was a perfect place for cooling ourselves down. Located 15 minutes away, this resort has a perfect view of Borobudur. We spent an hour sitting down at the restaurant, sipping drinks and enjoying nibbles. It was indeed a great way to hide from the sun while still enjoying the great view of Borobudur.

Chillin at Amanjiwo

Given that it’s past lunch time and we haven’t got any proper lunch, we headed back to Jogja for late lunch. It was perfect timing though as the restaurant we were heading wasn’t open until 3pm due to Islam’s fasting season. Mang Engking (Jl. Soragan No.13 Janti) was the restaurant we went to and it’s popular for its udang galah (river prawn). Again, the one we went to wasn’t the original place as it was too far for us – or our hunger in this matter. We had the famous honey grilled prawns, stir-fried morning glory and crispy fried squid. Cholesterol here we come!

Honey grilled prawn

Cute thing about this particular Mang Engking, the built a little castle and named it Soragan Castle. Even cuter, people use it as pre-wedding photo venue! So we felt obliged to take our post-wedding photo

Soragan Castle

Feeling a bit tired after an early morning, we decided to head to our hotel and check ourselves in. Our hotel of choice was Whiz Hotel (Jl. Dagen 8) which was located near Jl. Malioboro. The hotel was more than ok for an overnight stay, given its location and quiet surrounding, compared to the popular backpackers street of Jl. Sosrowijayan. After a short nap, we headed to Candi Prambanan for our main destination, the Rayamana Ballet.

Watching open air Ramayana Ballet was a childhood dream. Every Christmas I always go to grands’ house in Solo, a city 55 km away, but Christmas is in December and the open air shows are only from May to October. Thanks be to God, it was pouring heavily when we checked in and having our nap but then it was all clear sky! Amazing God indeed. Knowing that we’re 100% blessed, we happily entered the venue which was located in Candi Prambanan complex. Whilst Borobudur is a buddhist temple, Prambanan is a hindu temple but it’s just as pretty and majestic as Borobudur.

An act from the Ramayana ballet

Beautiful backdrop <3

I was impressed by the neatness of the show, from the entrance to the synopsis which was available in many languages (Indonesian, English, Germany, French, Korean, etc.). Apparently the first show was in 1961 so I suppose they have many years of experience to make it better. The show went for 2 hours with 15 minutes interval and it was epic. Thousand years love story re-enacted by more than a hundred dancers and musicians in front of a beautiful temple just made it so beautiful and romantic. We sat at the special class which gave us centre view of the stage and we also got a sitting cushion that was proven to be very important as the seats were from stone! Unless of course, if you pay more and go VIP. After the show, don’t forget to run to the stage and take pictures with the dancers.

with the main characters of Ramayana

That was the end of our day 1 in Jogja. We went back to the hotel, paid our driver and said adios to the rental car as tomorrow we’ll travel by foot & public transport. Excited! See you in day 2!